Absinthe and the “Green Fairy”

The Invention of Absinthe

The creation of absinthe is credited to a French doctor named Pierre Ordinaire, who fled to Switzerland during the turbulent years following the French Revolution. In 1792, Dr. Ordinaire began distilling a potent medicinal elixir in Couvet, Switzerland. This concoction blended high-proof alcohol with a variety of herbs, most notably wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), anise, fennel, and other botanicals. The green color of absinthe was not merely symbolic but derived from chlorophyll released by the maceration of herbs like wormwood, hyssop, and melissa during the production process. This gave absinthe its signature vibrant hue, which contributed to its nickname, “Green Fairy.”

Legend has it that Dr. Ordinaire traveled from village to village on horseback, offering his green potion as a miracle cure, earning it a reputation as a “panacea in a bottle.” However, absinthe was not meant to be consumed in its undiluted form. Traditionally, it was served with cold water, poured slowly over a sugar cube placed on a perforated spoon. This process not only softened the strong, herbal flavors but also caused the drink to louche, or turn milky, as the essential oils in the botanicals reacted with water. When consumed undiluted, absinthe’s high alcohol content and potent herbs could produce an overwhelming and hash-like effect, contributing to its reputation as an intoxicating and mystical spirit.

The absinthe fountain, a symbol of both luxury and ritual, played a crucial role in the drink’s preparation. This ornate vessel, often made of glass and metal, featured multiple spigots that allowed water to drip slowly and precisely over sugar cubes resting on absinthe spoons. The fountain not only enhanced the sensory experience of absinthe preparation but also became a centerpiece of cafés and social gatherings, adding an air of sophistication to the ritual.

According to historical accounts, Dr. Ordinaire’s absinthe recipe eventually found its way into the hands of the Henriod sisters, local herbalists in Couvet. The Henriods reportedly refined the recipe further and began selling absinthe as a cure-all tonic by the late 1790s. Some tales suggest that villagers whispered of the “Green Fairy,” a spirit said to inhabit the vibrant liquid, granting creativity and inspiration to those who drank it. Whether or not the Henriods perpetuated this myth is unclear, but it added an air of mystique to their tonic.

In 1797, Major Daniel-Henri Dubied, a Swiss businessman, recognized the potential of the Henriods’ creation. He purchased the recipe and partnered with his son-in-law Henri-Louis Pernod to produce absinthe on a larger scale. This collaboration marked the transition of absinthe from a local tonic to a product with broader appeal.

Commercial Production and Rise to Fame

Dubied and Pernod established the first absinthe distillery, Dubied Père et Fils, in Couvet in 1797. By 1805, Henri-Louis Pernod had expanded production across the French border to Pontarlier, where he founded the now-famous Maison Pernod Fils distillery. The move to Pontarlier not only allowed access to France’s burgeoning market but also to pristine Alpine water, which became a key ingredient in crafting high-quality absinthe.

Absinthe’s popularity grew rapidly during the 1820s and 1830s, largely due to its use by French soldiers stationed in Algeria. The soldiers were issued absinthe to purify their drinking water and as a preventative measure against malaria. Upon returning to France, these soldiers brought their newfound taste for the “Green Fairy” with them, sparking a cultural trend.

By the mid-19th century, absinthe had become the drink of choice in cafés and salons across Paris. Its appeal was particularly strong among the bohemians of the time—a community of writers, artists, and intellectuals who embraced absinthe as both a muse and a symbol of rebellion. Writers such as Charles Baudelaire and Edgar Allan Poe praised its intoxicating effects, while artists like Vincent van Gogh and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec reportedly drew inspiration from the emerald elixir. Toulouse-Lautrec was even rumored to carry a hollow cane filled with absinthe to ensure he was never without his creative fuel.

The Myth of the Green Fairy

The “Green Fairy,” or La Fée Verte, became a central figure in absinthe’s mythology. The nickname not only referenced the spirit’s signature green color but also evoked the idea of a muse-like entity that could unlock the drinker’s artistic potential. Some believed that consuming absinthe allowed one to commune with this mystical being, experiencing heightened creativity and altered perception. The ritual of preparing absinthe—slowly dripping water over a sugar cube to create the milky “louche”—added a theatrical, almost sacred quality to the experience.

Stories of absinthe-induced visions and wild creativity fueled its allure, but they also contributed to its darker reputation. The presence of thujone, a compound found in wormwood, was blamed for hallucinations and erratic behavior, earning absinthe a reputation as a dangerous and even addictive substance. While modern science has debunked many of these claims, the myth of the Green Fairy persists, adding to absinthe’s enigmatic charm.

Competition with Winemakers and the Path to Prohibition

As absinthe gained popularity, it posed a significant threat to the wine industry, particularly in France. The late 19th century saw a phylloxera epidemic devastate French vineyards, causing wine production to plummet and prices to soar. During this period, absinthe—affordable and widely available—became the drink of choice for many, further displacing wine as the preferred beverage.

This growing rivalry between absinthe producers and winemakers fueled efforts to discredit absinthe. Winemakers and their allies initiated campaigns to vilify absinthe, associating it with madness, hallucinations, and societal decay. They amplified reports of crimes allegedly committed under the influence of absinthe, such as the infamous 1905 Lanfray murder case in Switzerland. The moral panic created by these efforts significantly influenced public opinion and governmental decisions.

The Ban on Absinthe

The mounting moral panic, coupled with lobbying by the wine industry, led to widespread bans on absinthe in the early 20th century. Switzerland banned the spirit in 1910, and France followed suit in 1915. Other countries, including the United States, also enacted prohibitions. Absinthe was demonized as a dangerous and corrupting influence, despite little scientific evidence to support the claims about its harmful effects.

The Revival of Absinthe

After decades of prohibition, absinthe experienced a renaissance in the late 20th century. In 1988, the European Union revised regulations on thujone levels, paving the way for absinthe’s comeback. By the early 2000s, absinthe was once again being distilled and enjoyed worldwide, with historical brands like Pernod Fils reclaiming their place alongside modern producers.

A Spirit Worth Exploring

Today, absinthe is celebrated as much for its unique history as for its intricate flavors. Whether enjoyed traditionally with a sugar cube and cold water or as an ingredient in cocktails, absinthe invites drinkers to savor a piece of history. From its humble beginnings in Couvet to its global resurgence, absinthe continues to captivate the imaginations of those who seek its green embrace of the fairy.